Climbing Stuff
Terms
Holds
General Terminologies
- Project: a bouldering route
- Sent: finished the project
- Beta: clues about certain project
- Matching: two hands on the holds
- Heel/toe hook: using toe/heel area of the foot to support on a climbing hold
- Sandbag: describing the difficulty of a route is more of lower than graded
Pains & Injuries Relevant
Finger pain
Climber's finger is "one of the most common climbing injuries within the sport of rock climbing, accounting for about 30% of finger injuries seen in climbers. It is an overuse injury that usually manifests in a swollen middle or ring finger due to a damaged flexor tendon pulley, normally the A2 or A4 pulley." from Wikipedia
Finger Tenosynovitis: This kind of "pain typically comes on within minutes or hours after a climbing session, or acutely while climbing. While flexor tendon tenosynovitis can have a rapid onset from a single hard day or training session, it is most common with an increase in training volume, or from consistent overuse." from theclimbingdoctor.com
To assess finger tenosynovitis: "pressing on the palmar side of the fingers determines if the soreness is localized to that side, or is more diffuse throughout the finger. You would expect noticeable soreness on the palmar aspect compared to the dorsal side. This also contributes to the diagnosis. Look for swelling or fullness in the fingers, particularly at the base.1,2 Then, assess your movement by curling and straightening your fingers, and then doing so by passively moving them with the opposite hand. With tenosynovitis, you would expect it to be more provocative with active motion than passive." from theclimbingdoctor.com
Othere reference readings:
- Is my finger injured or just tired? Five ways to tell the difference on climbing.com
- Finger Injuries in Climbers - Part 1, by Lattice Training
Forearm pump
What is a Forearm Pump? Rock climbing involves using the entire body with precision, and our fingers have the burden of holding our body with relatively small muscles. There are superficial and deep finger flexors located on the palmar side of our forearms, most of them originating at the medial epicondyle of the humerus (funny bone). from theclimbingdoctor.com
Crimping too much is the common cause of forearm pump.
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If you're experiencing forearm pump while climbing, you can try these steps to fix it:
1. Stop climbing
2. Relax
3. Let your arms hang
4. Massage your arms
5. Swing your arms around
6. Shake your arms gently
7. Knead or massage your arm muscles
8. Stretch gently
1. Stop climbing
2. Relax
3. Let your arms hang
4. Massage your arms
5. Swing your arms around
6. Shake your arms gently
7. Knead or massage your arm muscles
8. Stretch gently
Wrist Pain
Miscellaneous
- How to Fix Climbing's Most Common Injury by Lattice Training
Training Relevant
My Bouldering YouTube list
Flexibility
- 3 EASY Stretches for INFLEXIBLE Climbers by Lattice Training
Hangboarding
- Hangboard Training 2 times per day for 2 years by Emil Abrahamsson
- Hangboard Training 2 Times Per Day For 30 Days by Emil Abrahamsson
- 5 Ways to Maximise Your Grip (without a Hangboard) by Lattice Training
- Climbers Guide to Hangboarding by Lattice Training
Finger Warmup
Slopers
- 7 Lessons to help you improve on Slopers by Emil Abrahamsson
- V15 Climber Shares Secrets To Climbing On Slopers ft. Emil Abrahamsson
Footwork
- How to INSTANTLY Improve your Footwork Technique by rockentry
General Tips
- Pro Coach Gives a Tip For Every Grade by Catalyst Climbing
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And lastly, be confident!!!
Books
- The Climbing Bible: Practical Exercises: Technique and strength training for climbing (The Climbing Bible, 2) Paperback – February 3, 2022
- Climb Injury-Free: A Proven Injury Prevention and Rehabilitation System Paperback – January 1, 2017